Hey guys about to install OME 612 coil overs and +2 CB shackles and 1.25" spacers on my 16CM Limited 4x4. Trying to decide if I can fit 295/65/20 Toyo MT's on it?? Don't mind trimming some if needed. Anybody got pics that would be awesome!
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295/65/20 will they fit
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Oil pressure barely above bottom mark
When I start my 03 3.4 tundra from cold start the needle on oil gauge will raise to half and go up to about 3/4 with acceleration, after it warms up it will flatten out on the bottom line. Not the 1/4 but the bottom. I have cleaned the pressure sender but no change what so ever. I am fairly certain that my pump is fine seeing as how I've driven it a couple hundred miles. But I need some advise on where to head now, I bought a new sender but would rather not put it in to get the same effect. Any advise?
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Removing Middle Seat in 2nd Row
Guys, new to the forum and looking at purchasing my first Sequoia (2013). I know that this has been discussed a bit, but is it easy (or even preferable) to remove the middle seat from the 2nd row split bench to be able to create a path back to the 3rd row? Or should I be looking at trying to find a limited/platinum with captains chairs and just remove the console?
Any suggestions are appreciated.
Thanks!
Josh
Any suggestions are appreciated.
Thanks!
Josh
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2007-2016 Toyota Tundra Power Heated Power-Folding Towing Turn Signal / Marker Light
SHOP HERE FOR GREAT PRICES 2007-2016 Toyota Tundra Power Heated Power-Folding Towing Turn Signal / Marker Light Mirror
FREE SHIPPING ON ALL ORDERS IN THE US
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2007-2016 Toyota Tundra Power Heated Power-Folding Towing Turn Signal / Marker Light
SHOP HERE FOR GREAT PRICES 2007-2016 Toyota Tundra Power Heated Power-Folding Towing Turn Signal / Marker Light Mirror Pair
FOR TRUCKS WITH POWER FOLD FROM THE FACTORY
FREE SHIPPING ON ALL ORDERS IN THE US!
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Aftermarket alternator: not harness 90980-11020
A reputable alternator manufacturer (I am not naming names) has provided me with very little support except to say that I am wrong, so I am trying to do this on my own. So far that is not going so well.
My factory 3 wire harness did not fit / plug into it. I ordered the 90980-11020 just in hopes that my factory 1 was somehow an odd ball; and yes I knew it was a stretch, but it was only like $6.
Is there some "easy" way to just find most of Toyota's wire harnesses at the alternator and order them all to find one that actually fits?
I have a 2002 3.4L V6, and while the alternator style is different, the harness is not. The harness is also used for other connections throughout both V6 & V8 00 through at least 04 Tundras, as well as at least the 3.4Ls of the following vehicles: 95-98 T-100, 96-02 4R, 95-04 tacos.
90980-11020 - Toyota Parts Deal
My factory 3 wire harness did not fit / plug into it. I ordered the 90980-11020 just in hopes that my factory 1 was somehow an odd ball; and yes I knew it was a stretch, but it was only like $6.
Is there some "easy" way to just find most of Toyota's wire harnesses at the alternator and order them all to find one that actually fits?
I have a 2002 3.4L V6, and while the alternator style is different, the harness is not. The harness is also used for other connections throughout both V6 & V8 00 through at least 04 Tundras, as well as at least the 3.4Ls of the following vehicles: 95-98 T-100, 96-02 4R, 95-04 tacos.
90980-11020 - Toyota Parts Deal
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Can I put 303/55/20 on stock 2011 Limited stock rims?
So I'm about to buy some BFG KO2's to replace my Toyo A/T2s. The Toyo's have been great tires, and I've gotten 65k out of them, but I like the more aggressive look of the BFGs and my brother says he's always gotten good miles from them. Anyway, my truck is a 2011 CrewMax with the 20" Limited Rims (stock Limited rims). I don't know what the offset or rim width is on these rims. When I got the Toyo's, I went up in size to 275/60/20 (instead of 55/20 stock) to fill the wheel wells a little more. With this set, I'd like to go a little bigger and wider without getting into having to change anything else (UCAs, lift, etc). I already have Bilstein 5100s on the front which I put on when I put the Toyo's on. I can handle minor rubbing in reverse or while parking as long as I know it's plastic fenderwell, etc and won't damage the truck or tires. Thanks for you advice for anyone who's done this or tried!
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Overheated tranny, now slipping. Thoughts?
Truck sat in 4LO 1st gear for a bout 5 minutes with foot on the brake. When I was ready to spot the truck though the obstacle and talked to the driver the coolant and tranny were hot. Tranny was showing 265ish, no AT warning light (270 I think?)
Anyways, let the truck idle to cool. Finished the trail in 4LO then dove another 50 random KM in 4HI and 2WD and had no issues. Temps were back down around normal, 160-180F.
Noticed heading in to town on a uphill the truck was going up hill and stopped accelerating. Pushed harder on the gas to force a downshift and would jump up to 4000ish RPM and sit and then try and down shift. Sometimes will bounce around trying to find the gears. On the way home (600KM) it was pretty bad at times, but I was still able to do 120KMPH (70MPH) for about 400KM with no issues except finding the power on hills when needed. Getting going from a start was pretty tough after pulling off the highway for a short stop. Temps were fine the whole way home.
Got home and let is sit for a bit, took it out for a short spin and could not really tell it ever had any issues. Would downshift fine and not search for gears. Shifts up through them fine.
Manually going 1st through 2 and 3 shifts fine no clunks or slippage.
So, pretty sure the fluid is toast. I'd like to start there 1st. Drain and flush (DIY myself) or take it to the dealer and do a full flush? I know and i've read the debate on this, but I am wondering now since I know ALL the fluid is probably toast and want it gone.
If that does not work, I'll go to a deluxe rebuild kit and have all the seals/plates/clutches ect replaced.
Thoughts?
Anyways, let the truck idle to cool. Finished the trail in 4LO then dove another 50 random KM in 4HI and 2WD and had no issues. Temps were back down around normal, 160-180F.
Noticed heading in to town on a uphill the truck was going up hill and stopped accelerating. Pushed harder on the gas to force a downshift and would jump up to 4000ish RPM and sit and then try and down shift. Sometimes will bounce around trying to find the gears. On the way home (600KM) it was pretty bad at times, but I was still able to do 120KMPH (70MPH) for about 400KM with no issues except finding the power on hills when needed. Getting going from a start was pretty tough after pulling off the highway for a short stop. Temps were fine the whole way home.
Got home and let is sit for a bit, took it out for a short spin and could not really tell it ever had any issues. Would downshift fine and not search for gears. Shifts up through them fine.
Manually going 1st through 2 and 3 shifts fine no clunks or slippage.
So, pretty sure the fluid is toast. I'd like to start there 1st. Drain and flush (DIY myself) or take it to the dealer and do a full flush? I know and i've read the debate on this, but I am wondering now since I know ALL the fluid is probably toast and want it gone.
If that does not work, I'll go to a deluxe rebuild kit and have all the seals/plates/clutches ect replaced.
Thoughts?
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Car Talk: Reader is all out of ideas about mystery noise
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Brake pad & Rotor Recommendations - 13WL Calipers
I bought jnich77's calipers since my brakes are sqeualing and they have a good amount of wobble on longer downhills but seem pretty smooth the rest of the time. I figure I'm just gonna go through them.
What pads and rotor combos are you guys running? There are the callahan chinese combo on Amazon shipped for $99. Good reviews
https://www.amazon.com/CFP40474B-Pre...ds=13wl+rotors
Or I can spend more money and do something from Rockauto - lotta options. I'm not trying to go full-tits on brakes but am not scared of spending a little more money than the most economical if it has value.
I'm sure there are threads covering this but they are old and may not be relevant to the current options.
Thanks in advance.
What pads and rotor combos are you guys running? There are the callahan chinese combo on Amazon shipped for $99. Good reviews
https://www.amazon.com/CFP40474B-Pre...ds=13wl+rotors
Or I can spend more money and do something from Rockauto - lotta options. I'm not trying to go full-tits on brakes but am not scared of spending a little more money than the most economical if it has value.
I'm sure there are threads covering this but they are old and may not be relevant to the current options.
Thanks in advance.
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2014 Tundra TRD SR5 For Sale
Selling my 2014 Toyota Tundra, SR5&TRD Package. Vehicle is in great condition, I am just downsizing. Vehicle has 55,xxx miles on it (90% from highway due to work commute). Power seat& power windows, 7 inch touch screen, bluetooth, navigation, XM radio. Truck is loaded. I have also added on TRD Sway Bar, Custom Exhaust, and Cold Air Intake (CAI and Exhaust have definitely helped in the MPG category). Price is sitting at $28,000, price is from KBB without adding in the upgrades I've put on. Please contact me via email or cell. More pictures can be sent. Contact info listed below.
PRICED TO SELL at $28,000!!!
Email: 2013mpa@gmail.com
Phone: 319-750-9686
PRICED TO SELL at $28,000!!!
Email: 2013mpa@gmail.com
Phone: 319-750-9686
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What do you think about this remote start?
It seems expensive but nice. Appears to be plug and play too.
EasyGO AM-SEQ-1G3 Smart Key Remote Start and Alarm System with Magnetic Gray Metallic Driver's Door Handle for Toyota Sequoia
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BYV5RYS...9BPBGS9E&psc=1
EasyGO AM-SEQ-1G3 Smart Key Remote Start and Alarm System with Magnetic Gray Metallic Driver's Door Handle for Toyota Sequoia
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BYV5RYS...9BPBGS9E&psc=1
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#1 method for MPG gains
What is the best mod for MPG that will not cost more than it will save? What is the best consistent MPG that 5.7 can get?
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Tire pressure question
I purchased a new set of Michelin Defender LTX M+S 275 x 65 xR18. I have had real good luck with Michelins. They told me the Defender was replacing the M+S 2
The Toyota dealer sold me the tires & mounted & balanced them.
In checking my air pressure this morning I found the front tires have 38psi & the rear 40 psi. My tires say 44 psi max cold. Inside my driver door states 30 psi front & 33 psi rear.
What psi are you folks using? It seems to me like 30 psi & 33 psi is a little low.
Thanks.
I have a 2007
The Toyota dealer sold me the tires & mounted & balanced them.
In checking my air pressure this morning I found the front tires have 38psi & the rear 40 psi. My tires say 44 psi max cold. Inside my driver door states 30 psi front & 33 psi rear.
What psi are you folks using? It seems to me like 30 psi & 33 psi is a little low.
Thanks.
I have a 2007
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Need help!
Hi I have a 2006 access cab with 16x9 -12 helo's on it with 265/75 duratracts. Love the tire for winter, anyways, I have some extra cash laying around so I'm gonna buy another set of rims and put mt's on them. There's no rubbing, lots of room, kinda close to the UCA, want a little bigger and wider tire on the new rims. Rims I'm looking at are 17x10 -24 fuel Mavericks. Truck does have a 2.5" levelling kit, and willing to trim a bit. What's the widest tire that would fit? And any tire suggestions would be fine too, thanks![]()
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Time to Upgrade, 5.7 or 4.6?
I am looking to get a newer Tundra. What are the opinions, pros, and Cons between the 5.7 and 4.6?
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0430 and 0156 codes?
I am getting these codes. How to fix, and what parts to buy?
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D-Ring tie downs in bed and on tailgate
I got my Tundra back in November and have been hauling wood and everything else in the back. Since I have the crewmax, I have the shorter bed which isn't a big deal. However, on a few occasions, I've hauled 16ft pieces of lumber and with 9+ feet of lumber hanging off the back, tying it down was a challenge. Now I know I can use a strap and go around the tailgate and attach to the tow hitch but I would rather not damage the paint on sides of the tailgate. Besides hauling lumber, just being able to tie things down from the back was a challenge unless whatever i was hauling was high enough for the stock mounting rings.
So, I decided to mount some D-Rings on the sides of my tailgate. I got them from Home Depot (4 for $5-$6) and I had the nuts/bolts/washers/lock washers on hand. I attached them to the sides of the tailgate and pulled on them. There was a little bit of flex in the side of the tailgate so I cut some aluminum to help brace it. Worked like a charm. Almost no flex. When I go to use these, I'm not ratcheting the tie-downs to the Nth degree. Just enough to keep everything from sliding and to keep everything stable. To keep the D-Rings down from slinging out when closing the tailgate, I used some magnets (bought off of Amazon.com) to hold them in place.
I'm sure everyone hauls stuff in the bed of their truck and as you've seen, things slide all the way to the front of the bed making it a pain to get to it. Using self tapping metal screws, I mounted 2 more D-Rings to either side of the bed and used a cargo net to keep everything where I want it.
I thought I would share b/c I'm sure others have had the same issues and for less than $15, it's an inexpensive solution.
Here are some pics:
So, I decided to mount some D-Rings on the sides of my tailgate. I got them from Home Depot (4 for $5-$6) and I had the nuts/bolts/washers/lock washers on hand. I attached them to the sides of the tailgate and pulled on them. There was a little bit of flex in the side of the tailgate so I cut some aluminum to help brace it. Worked like a charm. Almost no flex. When I go to use these, I'm not ratcheting the tie-downs to the Nth degree. Just enough to keep everything from sliding and to keep everything stable. To keep the D-Rings down from slinging out when closing the tailgate, I used some magnets (bought off of Amazon.com) to hold them in place.
I'm sure everyone hauls stuff in the bed of their truck and as you've seen, things slide all the way to the front of the bed making it a pain to get to it. Using self tapping metal screws, I mounted 2 more D-Rings to either side of the bed and used a cargo net to keep everything where I want it.
I thought I would share b/c I'm sure others have had the same issues and for less than $15, it's an inexpensive solution.
Here are some pics:
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Top Mount Turbo Kit for sale!
:nerd2: Tundra 2001 4.7L top mount turbo kit for sale. Good for 330+rwhp with bone stock internals and OEM ECU.:smile2:
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Seeking Mechanic (close to or near Raleigh NC) To Replace Exhaust Manifold
Hello,
Does anyone have a recommendation where I can take my 2001 Sequoia to replace the exhaust manifold? I believe I have the "ticking" problem indicating pinhole cracks in the manifold, and would like to address this.
Couple of shops I asked around is quoting 15 hours of labor plus parts.
I wouldn't mind installing JBA Shorty headers, as there's a JBA retailer in Raleigh.
Can anyone help with recommendations, or indicate places to avoid?
Thanks.
Does anyone have a recommendation where I can take my 2001 Sequoia to replace the exhaust manifold? I believe I have the "ticking" problem indicating pinhole cracks in the manifold, and would like to address this.
Couple of shops I asked around is quoting 15 hours of labor plus parts.
I wouldn't mind installing JBA Shorty headers, as there's a JBA retailer in Raleigh.
Can anyone help with recommendations, or indicate places to avoid?
Thanks.
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